do you really need oil seal installation tools?

earossi

Registered

Join Date: Nov 2003

Location: Naperville, Il

Posts: 496

So, the answer is that you absolutely can get away without the need to buy the expensive tools. All the above responses speak to that.

On the rear seal (flywheel), use the old flywheel seal flipped so that you are back-to-back with the new seal and after positioning the new seal to sit square, tap on the old seal lightly moving around the circumference to drive in the new seal. Or, find a round flat surface (usually PVC pipe fitting from Home Depot) to lay flat on the new seal and tap on the pipe fitting. Same with the front seal.

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Rear main seal in JD 8120

Maizeing

Posted 1/21/2016 14:27 (#5053220)
Subject: Rear main seal in JD 8120

Ontario's middle east

Does tractor have to be split to change that? It looks like there a short shaft between it and transmission. Can you get in there and work? Educate us. Grasseed

Posted 1/21/2016 14:33 (#5053232 - in reply to #5053220)
Subject: RE: Rear main seal in JD 8120

Suver, Oregon

Suver, Oregon

Are you sure you need a new rear main?

We thought we needed one but we were wrong.

It turned out we needed a new drive coupler. With time they shrink and pull a breather tube out of the transmission input shaft enough to get oil from there to flow into the flywheel area.

But, to answer your question, the tractor does not need to be split to change the rear seal. Lone Wolf Picker

Posted 1/21/2016 14:43 (#5053259 - in reply to #5053220)
Subject: RE: Rear main seal in JD 8120

Black Hawk County, IA

Yes, you can change it without splitting tractor. The taller and thinner guy the better. Loader brackets add to the fun. J

Correction, it was the front trans seal we changed.

Edited by Lone Wolf Picker 1/21/2016 14:50

deererammer

Posted 1/21/2016 15:21 (#5053321 - in reply to #5053259)
Subject: RE: Rear main seal in JD 8120

Pull the two back bolts out of the hood and tilt it foward. Turn the wheels to the left and work from the right side of the tractor. Remove the right hand hood spreader bracket. Remove the bolts from the trans input hub and slide it back. Mark the flywheel and torsion ring and remove the bolts from the ring. Remove the ring and dampner hub together. Remove the flywheel bolts and remove it. Once it's out, slide the input hub out of the trans to give you more room to work. Just remove the bolts from the housing and pry the seal and housing off. Remove the wear ring from the crankshaft. The new seal will probably be a unitized seal so it won't have a wear ring. There is a special tool to instal it. Be sure to clean the mating surfaces good and apply a good bead of sealant to the corners and bottom of the seal housing.

Edited by deererammer 1/21/2016 15:25

Grasseed

Posted 1/21/2016 17:17 (#5053536 - in reply to #5053321)
Subject: RE: Rear main seal in JD 8120

Suver, Oregon

Suver, Oregon

deererammer, is this an updated method from the 8000 series? The service manual I have says not to unbolt the housing due to the risk of tearing the pan gasket. It shows a puller for getting the bearing out of the housing I believe.

Just curious. London-loam

Posted 1/21/2016 19:21 (#5053828 - in reply to #5053536)
Subject: RE: Rear main seal in JD 8120

Arva, Ontario Canada

Be sure to clean seal housing and inspect for cracks, housing updates. DTEK-24

Posted 1/21/2016 19:55 (#5053932 - in reply to #5053220)
Subject: RE: Rear main seal in JD 8120

Other posters above are correct. Tractor does not have to be split. After you get the fly wheel off I would recommend you not taking the housing off of the engine that holds the rear main seal. (2 reasons) Keeping the oil pan gasket if it is not leaking in tack. Also rear main housing to crankshaft run out. If John Deere would have put dowels to center this up, it would have made it alot easier. Also you are going to be right at the transmission vent -Good time to replace the transmission seal and o-ring, and check out coupler for wear, etc..... deererammer

Posted 1/21/2016 20:30 (#5054024 - in reply to #5053536)
Subject: RE: Rear main seal in JD 8120

I don't know if that's the recommended way or not, but many times when 8000's come in for a rear main it's usually the oil pan gasket leaking under the rear main housing anyway. Most of the time you can remedy it with a good cleansing and a strong dose of sealant. Have seen times though when your have to pull the engine and replace the gasket.

Hello, I have a 2005 BX 23D that I just replaced the front PTO shaft and have completed the reinstall of the Transaxle to the main frame of the tractor, tested everything and the PTO works fine. However I noticed a leak coming from between the Hydrostatic unit and front cover plate, so I removed the Hydrostatic unit and ordered new seals, problem I am having is the lip of the seal is rolling over as I instal it and once it’s installed you cannot get it out without ruining it. I am using grease on the backside of the seal to keep the spring tensioner in place and use trans oil around the lip of the seal. What am I doing wrong here, I have tried (3) seals with no success. This is the upper shaft seal that goes to the driveshaft, the lower seal went on no problem at all. I am using a socket which is the exact size as the outside diameter of the seal to push it in, I can literally push the seal in with my hand, no tapping required, just steady pressure. Any help would be much appreciated from anyone. Thanks