Tractor Metric Oil Seal COMBI SF6 55 X 82 X 16.5mm NBR AU Axle Drive Shaft Seal Ring OEM 12014159B

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1. Are these 2 oil seals the probable cause of the leak, or could it be something else?

2. What is safest way to jack up and secure the left rear axle and differential?  The tractor has a WFE.

3. After removing the left rear wheel, the final drive assembly looks like it will still be very heavy.  Will supporting it with chain and front end loader work okay as I remove the four bolts?  Or is there a better/safer way?

4. After removing the four bolts, will the final drive assembly pull free off the Shaft or are there some snap rings and/or keys that have to be removed first?

5. To get to the 2 leaking oil seals, it looks like a snap ring holds the shaft and oil seals onto the differential.  Is this correct?

Thanks for any information/suggestions you might have.

After driving a partially restored CA several times, it has developed a hydraulic/transmission oil leak from the left final drive housing (drips from the inspection/drain hole under the left brake drum). The Final Drive illustration in the manual shows 2 Oil Seals on the shaft that enters the differential housing that might be the cause of the leak. Would appreciate any advise on the following questions.

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Most likely the inner seal is the worst problem. The outer seal requires a lot of dis-assembly of the final drive, where as to replace the inner one, you'll only need to remove the final drive assembly.  You can jack up and block under the transmission and remove the final drive assembly at those 4 bolts and then slide it out. A service manual for reference would be a big help to you. 

If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

Agree with Paul B. Leaking inner pinion seal. Easy to damage a new seal when installing the axle and the damage does not show up until you are done. Block front tires, remove interfering sheet metal (floor pan, fender, fender bracket, brake linkage, etc). Jack up and support with GOOD blocking under tranny and remove tire. I use an engine hoist (cherry picker) to remove the final; however if you have the space available a loader could work to support the final. Final is held in by the 4 bolts and there are no retainer clips involved. Recommend obtaining genuine AGCO seals; the after market ones from the auto store are more flimsy (get a pair just in case you ruin one installing it). Make sure the final is level when reinstalling it and go easy with it; the new seal can be damaged by the pinion shaft when re-installing the final.

What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC

I agree with Greg and Paul on the inner seal, and I'll add that the shim(s) sandwiched by the diff's bearing retainer can be another source.  Manual says to alternate shims and gaskets, but I've only ever seen metal shims.  I've heard excessive shimming could result in leaks. 

 

Disassembly is 4-bolts for the housing (slides out), 4-bolts for the retainer (mine were extremely rusty).  Retainer slides out.  Seal is pressed into the retainer.

 

Like Greg, I used a cherry picker on my 'C' with a strap.  Image below shows were to loop it so it balances.  Rest of chassis was supported by a splitting stand I built and some tall, wide based jack stands.

 

 

Oh... and mice friggin' love the hollow areas of the final drive...

 

 

Not a bad job really. 

 

Best of luck!

Ben

Edited by C in Concord - 04 May 2020 at 1:29pm

Hi Dale,Like Greg, I used a cherry picker on my 'C' with a strap. Image below shows were to loop it so it balances. Rest of chassis was supported by a splitting stand I built and some tall, wide based jack stands.

Leave things better than you found them.

1941 Model C (restored 2020)

Steiner's parts catalog shows only one oil seal for the "outer upper final drive shaft seal" which is 1.375" ID x 2.720" OD on page 60.  So do I only need this for the one labeled (B) and don't replace the inside oil seal labeled (A)?

Appreciate any information you can provide.

Thanks for the responses. I plan to order the seal(s) in advance and want to make sure I order the correct one(s). The parts illustration (see below) shows 3 oil seals, which I labeled (A), (B) and (C). I think it needs A and/or B, but I'm not sure. It seems that A and B oil seals are drawn as different dimensions.

closeup.........

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

I think the "B" seal might go down a foot INSIDE the final drive case and seal the final drive lube from getting OUT into the brake shoe area..... I would guess that "A" is the seal you need for the  outside of the differential case to keep the TRANS OIL INSIDE... I wonder WHY this seal is not shown with the DIFFERENTIAL case / bearings and shims ... on the other page ?

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

The advice to carefully reinstall the final drive is right on. Probably easier with a cherry picker than using a FEL. And a great excuse to buy one if you don't have one already!!

Good luck with your project. Please let us know how you make out.

Dale, I've got two manuals here: Operating Instructions & Repair Parts Manual which came with the tractor, and a Jensales reprint of the AC Parts Manual. Your parts diagram appears to be the one in the Op Inst & Repair Parts Manual. Both show the oil seals you labeled as A and B. The original part #'s are 800351 for A and 206449 for B. [These would now be 70800351 and 70206449, I believe.] Both manuals imply that both A and B are used to form the inner seal and are held in place with a snap ring. Paul, Greg and C are all referring to "the inner seal" so maybe what used to be a two-part seal is now a single seal. Or maybe there's another, better explanation! I'm guessing that this is just adding to the confusion, so perhaps a call to Bill in the service area at Sandy Lake Implements might clear things up if one of the other posters doesn't jump back in to do so.

WC, CA, D14, WD45

A cross sectional view looks something like this.. The A seal on the far right keeps the trans oil (ORANGE) from getting into the brake area that is DRY.... the B seal on the far LEFT keeps the differential gear lube (GREEN) from getting into the brake area that is DRY... The GREEN gear lube is "SLING" around by the big bull gear.. There is only a couple inches of lube in the bottom... The ORANGE trans lube is up on the shaft / seal and easier to leak thru seal "A".

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

here is the differential case... this should be the seal you are looking for.

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

Dave

Edited by Dave(inMA) - 05 May 2020 at 6:41pm

That cross-sectional diagram sure clarifies things, Steve. I've only replaced the inner oil seals once and that was years ago...memory is fuzzy as it's old!! Thanks for clearing up my post!

WC, CA, D14, WD45

Yeah, mice love them finals fir' sure!  And the stink will make ya puke!  Yuk!  Make sure ya wear gloves.

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

Looks like Steve(IL) and Dave have you covered. If you are having a hard time finding the inner seals (seal 'A'), DJS has them, link below. I used them and they fit well. A bit $$$ though. If you order by size, National (or similar) might be able to save you some. 1.187" ID, 2.004" OD, 0.250" wide.

https://stores.djstractorparts.com/axle-seal-ab-1628d/

Ben

Edited by C in Concord - 05 May 2020 at 7:55pm

Dale,Looks like Steve(IL) and Dave have you covered. If you are having a hard time finding the inner seals (seal 'A'), DJS has them, link below. I used them and they fit well. A bit $$$ though. If you order by size, National (or similar) might be able to save you some. 1.187" ID, 2.004" OD, 0.250" wide.Ben

Leave things better than you found them.

1941 Model C (restored 2020)

Don't wast your time with Stieners, Call Sandy Lake.  Brenda or Sara will have all of the parts you need. 

If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY

Thanks for all the help.  I'll look into getting a engine hoist cherry picker or maybe a manual chain hoist before starting.

Brenda at Sandy Lake mailed me the $14 oil seal they suggested was the problem (the "A" seal on my diagram). This was consistent with everyone's comments and the seal's dimensions are the same as noted by C in Concord. Brenda sent me a better parts diagram that clarified the difference between A and B seals, similar to what Steve(ill) posted.

  Let us know how you come out.
Want to post the diagram that Brenda sent you?  Or email or text it to me?
VErY informative thread.  THANKS for starting it.

Let us know how you come out.Want to post the diagram that Brenda sent you? Or email or text it to me?VErY informative thread. THANKS for starting it.

"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17

CA seal replacement

Here's a short video that may help!

Thanks & God Bless

Dennis

Below is the parts illustration link that Brenda emailed me.  If it's not viewable, send me your email address by private message and I'll forward it to you (or anyone else who wants it).  I was not able to paste the pdf as a picture.

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/1?ui=2&ik=ea723486bf&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1666037731744220644&th=171ef47d6f0305e4&view=att&disp=inline

Ted: